more May 16 ....and that is it for Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires once ran trams, as evidence by bits of letover line. Now, its subway and trains are overcrowded and dangerous. When there is room on the train in non'peak hours, people wander the train selling many things - tissues, chocolate, choclate milk, diaries, lighters.

On Thursday night W and I browsed bookshops together on Corrientes, admiring the bargains. Classic literature in different ranges, some plain bound, others Victorian flowery. I bought a Spanish-English dictionary for $11 pesos. On our trip back to Haedo a man rolled his amplifier onto the train, set up his guitar, harmonica and tambourine around his leg and played country, folky music. He was wonder, really talented. W said, ´I love this´. She said there are a few musicians who play on this route who were very good. Most passengers gave the musician money and many bought chocolate from the train vendors as well.

It is great to experience W´s enthusiasm for the city she has lived in all of her life. She is scared to cross train tracks, as the trains come fast and no barriers stop people from crossing. She said there are a lot of accidents and suicides and told the story of a girl who fainted onto the tracks, got hit by a train and emerged only bruised.

As I sit here in the airport I watch a young female passenger don a face mask. Many airport workers are wearing them too. I hope it keeps the swine flu away.